Chapter 7: Building textures in fabric and stitch

Standard

67

Fabric manipulation

Gathering

Cotton with a square grid

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Drawn up

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Stitched (with difficulty, see next sample)

68

Polyester Satin with a square grid

Satin square grid a.JPG

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Drawn up

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

I found it very difficult to keep the manipulation in one place, and terribly difficult to remove the threads after stitching.  I found some cheap not-bondaweb in a box, ironed a small piece on the back – it doesn’t stick very well – backed that with some equally cheap sheer, and then stitched the sample.  It won’t matter if the backing comes off.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Threads withdrawn

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Stitched

Sheer with a square grid

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

69

Silk noil with a diagonal grid

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

This was a trial of marbling using oil paint which went wrong.  The wrong side was better, so I worked on that.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Drawn up

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Bondaweb and sheer on reverse

Threads withdrawn

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Stitched

Polycotton with a twisted grid

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Drawn up

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Threads withdrawn, bondaweb etc added, and stitched

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Close-up

70

Gathering using a heat-shrink thread

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Grid using Madeira heat-shrink smocking thread on polyester satin

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

After ironing: the thread shows up on the darker parts, and I doubt if it could be removed (I didn’t try).  It worked well, and may have uses.

71

Gathering using elastic

Polycotton with elastic.JPG

Transfer-painted poly-cotton with shirring elastic.  I like the effects of practically everything else better.

Smocking

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Lino-printed cotton with machine gathering stitches

Cotton smocking b.JPG

Threads drawn up

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Both my machines have a pattern for smocking: this is it, and very effective.  (My most long-time friend from primary school, whose mother was a translator for Simplicity Patterns, was looking at this earlier today and wanting to know how I did it.  She needs a new machine!  Hers does zig-zag and blind hems only, she has 6 grandchildren, 4 under school age).

72

Gathering onto fusible webbing/transfer adhesive

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Procion dyed muslin and rug canvas

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Bondawebbed onto polycotton

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Stitched (I really liked this method)

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Tea-dyed scrim bondawebbed to Tyvek

73

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Calico using Texture Magic and a steam iron: an expensive but quick way of producing texture

Ruching

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Using a gathering foot on Sari ribbon

74

Pleats and Tucks

Pintucks

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Dyed muslin using two different twin needles

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

The wrong side: I really like this result

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

A finer muslin, to see if it would work as a shadow

Muslin with twin needle d.JPG

Not really, the other sample is better

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Back of the bag from Module 3

75

Pleats and tucks

Wave pleats a.JPG

Marbled poly-cotton with machine patterns

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Stitched tucks

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Wave pleats

Holes – Grids on scrim

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Foot on

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Foot off

This was very soft scrim – more like muslin – and although I managed a grid, it was very difficult with the foot on.  I found a thicker one, and withdrew a few threads.  It really depends on the result required.

76

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Procion-dyed scrim with threads withdrawn and foot on.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Foot off with cords

77

Stitching to create Texture

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Blodau yn y cae

Coloured muslin, cut holes, cords, machine stitches, eyelets, free machining – large granite stitch, tailor tacks.

This is another Blue Peter piece combining the previous technique and some of the following ones.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Original source, which was enlarged and traced – I forgot to reverse it.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Cable stitch cockerel head

Procion-dyed calico, (I happened to have some in the same colours as the original background), coton a broder – black and hand dyed, perle 8 in two colours and Lana.  I was rather pleased with this, and may frame it.

78

Chapter 05066

Ne-ne neck markings

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Poly-cotton with whip stitch in metallic and rayon embroidery thread

79

Utility stitches to create Texture

All on badly marbled calico, using rayon machine embroidery threads

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

a) Pattern 3: Vari-overlock

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

b) Pattern 8: Double overlock

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

c) Pattern 24: Honeycomb – smocking

80

Couching

Top to bottom:

Knitting yarn couched using zig-zag stitch

Knitting yarn couched using straight stitch

Very thick yarn couched using straight stitch

Fancy tubular yarn with knots

Handmade cord with knots

Close-up

81

Top Left: Single layer of looped yarns

Top Right: Multi-layered looped yarns

Bottom: Fancy fringed yarn free machined

Close-up

82

Design using couching:

Goose misericord from Ripon

Early Misericord from Ripon Cathedral showing Fox and Goose

This is a couched version of the Misericord from Ripon: just the goose body in Nene shades.  I couched a piece of stretchy, tubular yarn into the shape of the goose, outlined the wing feathers using double kitting yarn, with a bunch of knotted threads down the right hand side, and the body is layers of looped yarn diminishing in thickness upwards.

Close-up of upper body

Close-up of lower body showing tubular yarn (a bit like feathers, I hope)

83

Use of Tailor-tacking foot

Top to bottom:

Single layer, satin stitch length

Double row

Double layer attempt: unsuccessful as the foot kept getting caught in the previous layer.

(See also Blodau yn y cae centre bottom green with feed dog lowered)

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