Chapter 10: Assessment Piece

Standard

Part 1: Toile

I am now making the toile,  and have made some notes as I’ve gone along, I’m editing them so that when I come to make the actual bag, I actually have instructions as I find constructing off the top of my head very difficult and tend to put things off until I absolutely have to do them.  (The e-mail about the cancellation of C&G accreditation certainly concentrates the mind.)

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Exterior (Pintucked) curve               Interior (Design) curve

Curves from motif.

I found the Interior curve difficult to get even, so I tried the Exterior one as well.  This was better.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

This was still difficult, it isn’t as even as I would like, so I shall smooth it out a little and put it at a slight diagonal, which I think will be more interesting than a straight pintuck. I used two green multicolour threads as I like the variation, so I shall use the Mettler blue ombre and the pretty Superior blue/green/mauve on the actual bag.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Plain printed fabric for the toile front under the flap.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Toile 1 – Part-finished bag: no fastening or large front motif

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Toile 2 – Open bag before lining slip-stitched

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Toile 3 – Small interior pocket

This pocket was a lot more difficult to stitch than I expected, I could not get the depth I wanted, so I shall have to think about whether to put one in the finished bag.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Finished toile 1

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Finished toile 2

Part 2: Instructions for Bag

  1. MEASURE EVERYTHING.
  2. Print a piece of fabric 34cm long and 35cm wide for front under flap.
  3. Fit stitching into pattern.
  4. Cut 2 bag shapes (one facing each way) in dyed fabric, 3 in lining fabric (2 fronts and 1 back), and 1 in dyed, printed and stitched fabric for the front under the flap.
  5. Work the pintucks for the back on a piece of dyed fabric at least 4cm longer and wider than the pattern size to take account of the seam allowance (1.5cm for the seam with the flap).  [A 3mm twin needle used on fabric 36cm by 30cm was reduced to 32cm in width and 28.5cm in height.]
  6. In the centre of the fabric for the back draw a Tailor’s chalk line of the curve to be followed (developed from the motif on the front) and work outwards until the required width is achieved.
  7. Work free embroidery on the front.
  8. Stitch front bag pieces together.  Trim seams, clip curves and press.
  9. Stitch back bag pieces together.   Trim seams, clip curves and press.
  10. Stitch front to back to make centre pocket.
  11. Stitch lining together.  Trim seams, clip curves and press.
  12. Stitch flap lining to flap
  13. Tack pocket linings to tops of large pockets and top-stitch.
  14. Work embroidery for the front motif.
  15. Attach fastening.
  16. Bondaweb the front motif to vilene.
  17. Stitch to lining, clip curves.
  18. Turn inside out, press and slipstitch opening.
  19. Attach cords to bag.
  20. Work Bosun’s plait for strap.
  21. Attach front motif to bag, covering the fastening.

Part 3: Bag

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Printed Fabric for Bag.

I followed instruction 1, and either got too clever, or forgot my maths can be a bit suspect.  (We number a Maths degree, a high powered accountant, and two daughters with A level maths among our close relatives – one cousin and I dipped out: we scraped through O level).  I intended to do the same as the green front, but the patterns were too far down the fabric and the lines too close together, so I staggered the pattern and will have to calculate what will work in the stitching.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Printed fabric with pintucks and machine pattern

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Printed fabric with added stitching

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Close-up 1

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Close-up 2

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Front cut out

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Front stitched together

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Back cut out.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Back stitched together.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Centre pocket.

I stitched this before I stitched the linings together (see revised instruction 10), it seems to have worked, but I’m not sure if I can top stitch the linings in.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Bag before lining

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Bag front showing flap.

Now here’s a question: Do I stitch the machine pattern seam re-inforcements in blue, as I had intended, or would the orange look better and unify it?  (Only one row, not three).

 Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Probably both, blue outside, orange next to it.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Inside Pocket finished

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Lining topstitched

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Back with blue machine stitching

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Front pocket with blue machine pattern

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Bag with blue stitching

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Bag with both rows of stitching

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Back with both rows of stitching

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Both pockets with two rows of stitching

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Printed front and flap lining with both rows of stitching

I really like the result with the two rows, just the orange would have been wrong as the bag is predominantly blue, but the orange and the blue together are exactly right.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Front motif

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Fastening on front flap

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Fastening on front

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Cord attached to bag – single on flap and double on bag.  The cord was slip-stitched to the bag and flap by hand and the top 10cm front and backpockets zigzagged together.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Before strap braid was worked.

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Right hand side

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Left hand side

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Braid strap

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Motif slip-stitched to bag

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Close-up

Digimax A50 / KENOX Q2

Finished bag

chapter-10-089

I hope you can read this; I tried to copy the form into the blog before I wrote on it, but I couldn’t manage it, so I scanned it in.  Basically, as we know, I changed the colour, and didn’t use the felt, but apart from that, it is pretty much as planned, and I like the result.  I forgot to take a photo of the bag with the cords attached before I made the strap, I hope you can visualise what it looked like.

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